SETTING UP EQUIPMENT TO COURSE
There are several ways to go about setting up a course. Generally, you will be pulling one end of the string around the course as you locate and install the pulleys out in a field. This is usually accomplished with the string being on the take up wheel which is installed on the lure machine. If the string is new and in the bulk spool configuration, you can have a person hold the spool on a dowel or broom handle while you install the pulleys.
The corner pulleys should be installed by opening the hinge and driving 2 or 3 spikes into the ground through the holes in the hinge. The pulley is then closed over the hinge toward the inside of the corner. It is a good idea to pound a slight indentation into the ground with a hammer where the hinge is to be placed. This will cause the pulley to be tilted back away from the corner (Figure 1). The pulley should also be oriented so that it equally divides the angle that the string will make when you proceed to the next pulley (Figure 2, Example A). If the corner pulley is oriented as shown in Example B, the force of the string will sometimes tilt and twist the pulley in such a way as to allow the lure to flip the string off the pulley as it goes around the pulley.
After you have set up the course and returned to the lure machine, you need to install the continuous loop sheave or S/S continuous loop wheel on the lure machine. If the take up wheel is installed on the lure machine, it must be removed prior to installing the continuous loop sheave or wheel.
The S/S continuous loop wheel has a hub with a 5/8” bore and is designed to be used with a Ford starter motor having a long shaft with a 1/4” hole in the end of the shaft. The wheel can be installed in one of two ways.
The first method allows the wheel to be mounted on the motor shaft near the lure stand. This method is currently preferred because it puts less stress on the motor bearings and provides a more secure mounting. In order to mount the S/S wheel in this manner, you will need to file a flat spot on the motor shaft. To accomplish this, remove the 1/4” bolt and nylock nut from the hub and back out the 5/16” threaded bolt so that the wheel will slip onto the shaft of the motor. Position the wheel near the lure stand leaving a 1/2” or so between the rim of the wheel and the lure stand. Mark the shaft of the motor at the end of the hub and remove the wheel. Now file a flat spot about 3/8” square and about 3/32” deep (below the surface of the motor shaft). When installing the wheel, be sure the end of the bolt in the hub of the wheel is tightened down onto the flat spot.
CAUTION: If you just tighten the bolt down onto the shaft, it will cause a burr on the shaft and you may not be able to remove the wheel from the shaft.
The alternative and a commonly used method for installing this style wheel is to slide it onto the shaft and align the holes in the hub of the wheel with the hole in the end of the motor shaft. Using the 1/4” bolt and nylock nut provided with the wheel, insert the bolt through the holes in the hub and the hole in the end of the motor shaft. Attach the nylock nut to the 1/4” bolt and tighten the nut all the way down to the hub. DO NOT substitute a non-locking nut for the nylock nut. A non-locking nut could loosen under use and fly off the bolt causing injury to a bystander. Also, if you use this method for installing the S/S wheel, you should remove the 5/16” threaded bolt used in method one explained above.
Once you have installed the continuous loop wheel, you need to position the lure machine so that the string is in a straight line with the groove in the wheel and determine the amount of starting tension on the string before placing the string on the wheel. Again, there are several ways to accomplish this.
One way is to take the free end of the string and bring it together with the string coming off the spool or take up wheel (thus forming a “continuous loop”) and bring it back to the lure machine. Do not cut the string and tie the two ends together just yet. All you are attempting to do, at this point, is to gauge the amount of tension or force on the string. For the lure machine to be able to drive the string there must be some tension on the string. The amount of tension required varies with each course set up and the weather conditions. The continuous loop sheave requires from 15 to 25 lbs. of tension. The S/S continuous loop wheel usually requires from 8 to 12 lbs. of tension. You can measure the string tension using a fisherman’s spring scale that will weigh up to 25 lbs.
When you have determined that the tension is about right, you can cut the string coming off the spool or take up wheel at the point where you are holding the string. Join the two ends by tying a knot to form the continuous loop. Tie a couple of small loops (approx. 6” long) in the string, about 6 or 8 feet apart, to which you will attach the lures.
Now, before operating the lure machine, the base needs to be spiked to the ground with the 8”spikes provided using the holes in the base of the machine. All four holes in the back (away from the direction of the line) should be used and the two end holes in front.
After nailing the lure machine to the ground, place the string on the continuous loop wheel (Figure 3) and jog the switch to see if the continuous wheel drives the string. If the string slips when the wheel turns or the string doubles over on itself, there is not adequate tension on the line. To correct this condition you need to shorten the string in one of the following ways. The method most frequently used is to cut a length of string out of the loop which shortens the string and increases the tension. You can also move the machine back or move a pulley in such a way as to increase the length of the course which will have the same effect as shortening the string.
The S/S continuous loop wheel has a hub with a 5/8” bore and is designed to be used with a Ford starter motor having a long shaft with a 1/4” hole in the end of the shaft. The wheel can be installed in one of two ways.
The first method allows the wheel to be mounted on the motor shaft near the lure stand. This method is currently preferred because it puts less stress on the motor bearings and provides a more secure mounting. In order to mount the S/S wheel in this manner, you will need to file a flat spot on the motor shaft. To accomplish this, remove the 1/4” bolt and nylock nut from the hub and back out the 5/16” threaded bolt so that the wheel will slip onto the shaft of the motor. Position the wheel near the lure stand leaving a 1/2” or so between the rim of the wheel and the lure stand. Mark the shaft of the motor at the end of the hub and remove the wheel. Now file a flat spot about 3/8” square and about 3/32” deep (below the surface of the motor shaft). When installing the wheel, be sure the end of the bolt in the hub of the wheel is tightened down onto the flat spot.
CAUTION: If you just tighten the bolt down onto the shaft, it will cause a burr on the shaft and you may not be able to remove the wheel from the shaft.
The alternative and a commonly used method for installing this style wheel is to slide it onto the shaft and align the holes in the hub of the wheel with the hole in the end of the motor shaft. Using the 1/4” bolt and nylock nut provided with the wheel, insert the bolt through the holes in the hub and the hole in the end of the motor shaft. Attach the nylock nut to the 1/4” bolt and tighten the nut all the way down to the hub. DO NOT substitute a non-locking nut for the nylock nut. A non-locking nut could loosen under use and fly off the bolt causing injury to a bystander. Also, if you use this method for installing the S/S wheel, you should remove the 5/16” threaded bolt used in method one explained above.
Once you have installed the continuous loop wheel, you need to position the lure machine so that the string is in a straight line with the groove in the wheel and determine the amount of starting tension on the string before placing the string on the wheel. Again, there are several ways to accomplish this.
One way is to take the free end of the string and bring it together with the string coming off the spool or take up wheel (thus forming a “continuous loop”) and bring it back to the lure machine. Do not cut the string and tie the two ends together just yet. All you are attempting to do, at this point, is to gauge the amount of tension or force on the string. For the lure machine to be able to drive the string there must be some tension on the string. The amount of tension required varies with each course set up and the weather conditions. The continuous loop sheave requires from 15 to 25 lbs. of tension. The S/S continuous loop wheel usually requires from 8 to 12 lbs. of tension. You can measure the string tension using a fisherman’s spring scale that will weigh up to 25 lbs.
When you have determined that the tension is about right, you can cut the string coming off the spool or take up wheel at the point where you are holding the string. Join the two ends by tying a knot to form the continuous loop. Tie a couple of small loops (approx. 6” long) in the string, about 6 or 8 feet apart, to which you will attach the lures.
Now, before operating the lure machine, the base needs to be spiked to the ground with the 8”spikes provided using the holes in the base of the machine. All four holes in the back (away from the direction of the line) should be used and the two end holes in front.
After nailing the lure machine to the ground, place the string on the continuous loop wheel (Figure 3) and jog the switch to see if the continuous wheel drives the string. If the string slips when the wheel turns or the string doubles over on itself, there is not adequate tension on the line. To correct this condition you need to shorten the string in one of the following ways. The method most frequently used is to cut a length of string out of the loop which shortens the string and increases the tension. You can also move the machine back or move a pulley in such a way as to increase the length of the course which will have the same effect as shortening the string.
At this point you should observe the course you have just laid out to determine if any hold down pulleys are required. A hold down pulley should be used where the string is not resting on the ground due to variations in the terrain. It is very important for the safety of the hounds that the string not be allowed to travel more than an inch or two above the ground for any substantial distance. A substantial distance is defined as more than 3 or 4 feet. What you are trying to prevent is the opportunity for the hounds to pick up the string with their feet when they are running which could result in the dog becoming entangled in the string. To install a hold down pulley or use a box pulley as a hold down, you simply place the pulley over the string and hold it in place by driving 4 spikes through the screw eyes and/or hinge into the ground. It is a good idea to cross the spikes as shown in Figure 4.
